Sunday, December 31, 2023

The local pub

Some rural communities are fortunate to have a local pub. Some have more than one.

Often these pubs will rely heavily on food to stay alive, with offerings ranging from full-on restaurant style, through gastro-pub, to homestyle cooking and on to basic pub style (often freezer-max). Packets of crisps, pork scratchings etc clearly don't really count in the food offering stakes.

Along with many neighbours, I count myself lucky to live a very short stroll from a popular rural pub.

For the avoidance of doubt, after a period of radio silence of over nine years, I confirm that I still live in the heart of the Chiltern Hills which is a very pleasant part of the country.

After being in-situ for over a quarter of a century, earlier in the Autumn our local pub landlord handed in the keys and moved on. He didn't want to, but there was an unwillingness on the part of the brewery to offer a lease renewal on terms with which each side would be happy.

The old style was that for four or five days a week the pub was busy for most of the time. There was a busy lunch crowd, often the older generation, out for a regular good value and reliable meal with family or friends. From around four o'clock on weekdays there was the 'trade crowd' popping in for an after-work drink. The pub then morphed back into food-time in the early evening and once the food service had finished (generally moderately busy), the locals came out until late, especially on a Friday or Saturday. 

Sundays focussed on Sunday Roasts. That focus is still there with the food very good, indeed probably better than before.

We locals want the new licensee to succeed, we really do.

There has been some light touch decorating done. It is very tasteful and is generally considered to be an improvement.

The regulars have carried on.

The new landlord isn't happy that many of the lunchtime customers only want soup and bread. Prices were previously ridiculously good value, so really it isn't a surprise that they have gone up. Unfortunaly, customers didn't get the memo, so food trade has slowed.

I stress that I have not heard one bad word about the food, which by all accounts is good.  
A notice has now gone up saying that food will only be available on lunchtimes, unless tables are pre-booked in the evening. So the soup suckers are important after all.

Last Wednesday, I drove past at nine o'clock in the evening and all the lights were off. Yesterday, Last Orders were called at nine forty five and everyone was out by ten.

Sorry, this is not the way to run a pub that is at the heart of the community. I understand that money needs to be made, but irregular opening hours will drive custom elsewhere. An inconsistent food offering will drive custom away. Cross-subsidising another business makes no sense, for that seems to be what is happening.

The new licensee needs to change their priorities. They should hand back the keys of their other much smaller pub, which is by all accounts a huge money-pit.

Focus on the larger establishment that has built up a loyal customer base over 25 years, open consistently and don't close early on a random basis, put the one chef in on a full time basis.

Perhaps most importantly, as the owner of the business, they should perhaps try to look as though they want to be there. People want to be welcomed with a smile, not by someone who looks like they don’t really want to be there.

Running a pub or two involves a lot of hard work and plenty of business sense. Sadly both seem to be sadly lacking under the new regime in this rural backwater. I fear for the future.

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